Shodoshima 88 Guide

 I started this journal as a way to encourage others to visit Shodoshima and see some of these amazing temples.  I wanted to provide a source of information for non- Japanese speakers.

The basic information is at the end of the guide - transport, accommodation list , costs etc. The main part is a day by day guide. This is finished now, but in a basic  form. It still needs some work. In particular please feel free to comment and add extra informatin on accomodation, route finding etc.... I will incorporate comments into the guide a s soon as I can.

Here's the view that inspired me to do the pilgrimage


 

I hope you will be inspired by the pictures on this page and by the idea of visiting this beautiful island.

Many people have heard of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage and find the idea of the trip attractive but its a daunting prospect:  8 weeks off work, hiking 1,000k,  the expense involved and  so on. Also there are lots of books and websites that discuss the misery of walking in the rain, blisters, loneliness etc. 

I don't pretend that you won't have any problems on the Shodoshima 88, but the island is renowned for its fine weather and mild climate, you can fit the whole trip into a two week vacation, the island is small so you can always get back to the main town and a comfy hotel easily - either by bus or taxi - and if you live In Japan already, its very accessible for a "remote" place with ferry connections to places like Kobe, Osaka, Himeji and Okayama.  

If you have completed the Shikoku 88, or visited some of the more famous Temples there as a tourist, you will find that this pilgrimage has a very different "flavor". It's very quiet. There's a real pilgrimage season in the spring when you will see some small bus / taxi pilgrim groups. The whole time I was there I saw ONE other walking pilgrim and found myself at a temple at the same time as a bus group once or twice. It's pleasantly uncommercial. The temples are a mixture of styles, sizes and locations but they all have great atmosphere and some are truly awe inspiring.

While you walk you will see wonderful scenery, you are never far from the sea, and if you decide that pilgrimage is not for you, there are some fun  "tourist" things to do.

Happy Trails

jenni

I took one picture at every temple on the route. I used to think that I would put them all on this Journal; now I'm not so sure - I don't think I should show you everything - you should go there and see it with your own eyes. One of the greatest pleasures of a trip like this is that its is never what you expect it to be and your view changes every minute. So I will include a few pictures - maybe one for each day of the hike. 

This section starts at the Kusukabe Ferry Port, goes up the mountain and back down again. It would be convenient to stay at the Olive YH 2 nights and leave any heavy packs there. Its an easy stroll from there  along the 436 to the Ferry Port . ( The cafe there opens at 10am, (pasta and cakes, toilet etc, souvenir shop) but there are vending  machines outside - drinks and  ice cream. The udon shop next door opens at lunch time. You will be back here for Lunch)

I started at 8.30 am, cool and cloudy weather, ideal for an uphill hike

 Opposite the Ferry Port turn left and head away from the sea. Past the turning to Seikan- Ji on the right. (There is  a vending machine here that sells drinks and snacks. (Choc-an-Pan + chips)

Carry on up the road and turn left (sign) to Kinoshita - An(temple 19).    The toilet here is like some one's house - heated seat, toilet slippers etc. I met a nice old lady here. 

Go back to the main road and turn left up the hill to head for #14
Its a two hour straight hike up the hill from 19.  Go along the main road past a little road side shrine and a couple of ponds, plus a hotel (?) and small store.  As you leave the houses behind, there is a large Kannon group on the right. Just past this, turn right  at a Henro Michi arrow. Follow this path up the hill thro'  the woods. 

It comes out at Inotani, next to a pond.  There is a junction of three roads. The main road uphill goes to the Kankakei Cable Car station, so buses and taxis pass by here. The minor path (steep) heads to the right and uphill to #18. The main road to the right is the way to #14 and #20. 

Walk along the road, past #20 to reach Kiyotaki-San (temple 14).  You can see it from the valley. its the home of Fudo Myo, so worth the trip. Awesome!!

There's a gift shop, and cooler with juice for sale. There was no one around (despite the presence of a house with a car parked outside), so I left a note with the money for my purchases and headed back to #20.
( I some times feel a little nervous wandering around these places on my own, but it seems to be common that they are unattended, or that the priest only comes out to speak to groups).

Turn back along the road to reach Hotokegataki (Temple 20). Its another great cave, really beautiful. However, the ladies that work there gave me a little bit of a hard sell on buying charms etc.

sign showing the many attractions of Temple 20  -Hotokegataki

Continue back to Inotani and take the small steep track to the right to go to Sekimon Do (Temple 18) Beautiful at any time of year, but when the trees are green its wonderful, like being bathed in green sunlight. This is the Temple that inspired me to do this pilgrimage. Its part of the scenic walk up the Kankekei Gorge (Ura 8 views Walking Track) - a worthwhile trip in its own right.  Then back to Inotani, follow the path back down to the main road and descend.

After passing the crossroads with the hotel, the small store and the roadside shrine, turn right after a small sewing factory (sign on lamp post), cross the yard of a Shinto shrine and follow a stone sign up a small hill, thro' the cemetery to Mineyama -An (temple 22)  This is Jizo land.  

You can see a school down below, follow the path down, and make a  "U" around the school (left to road, right, right again) to reach  Hon-Do (Temple 23) It seems slightly shabby and unloved.  Continue to right on the road and come out close to Kusukabe Port again.  

Turn right on main road. Henro Michi forks right just after the Bus Stop (bench, roof) and goes thro' a village. Book and signs do not match here. At Shinto shrine, turn right, head towards coke machine, turn left along a stone path to Anyo Ji (Temple24)   There are dogs! The ladies who live (?) here are very nice.  Then go around the back, follow the sign sinto the woods and up the steps to reach quiet and pretty  Seiganji An (temple 25)

From 25 the signs are clear to Sakura An (Temple 27) It has a pretty name but couldn't be uglier. Some took a temple and built a 1970's trailer around it. The shrine room is inside -  totally enclosed and with benches, cushions - it makes a good shelter. 

2 minutes from #27, down the hill, towards the sea is Amida Ji (temple 26). This is a "proper" temple.

You are back at sea level and 25 -26 - 27 are all behind the Olive YH and near to the Olive Park (onsen, cafes, gift shop). Also in this area is Dutch Pancake Camping, which has a restaurant.

 Day  Four brings you across  the Mito peninsula and along some wild and windy coast line. (You will also be exposed to the sun if its a sunny day)  It's very beautiful. 

I set off at  8am. It was very windy all day, with a little rain in the afternoon. (I later found out that boats between the island and the main land and Shikoku had been cancelled).

In the first part of this section , near the Olive Park, there are some hotels which might be altenatives to YH, also plenty of drinks machines etc, but take some supplies with you as there is a long stretch with not much on it. (Two  basic stores at Temple 31.) You can end the day at the road service area / family adventure park  (Furusatou Mura)
It has cafe, shop, toilets, art museum  (yes really!) and friendly staff who will book a room for you at a nearby hotel. (the Shodoshima Hotel is easily walkable but the staff will come for you in the car!)

From the YH / Temple 27 , turn west  along the 436. At the Olive Garden, turn left, off the main road. Follow the road up above the sea. As it leaves the houses, it curves around to the left and steps on the right side of the road kead up to a dirt  road. There are good signs. You pass by a few houses and communication towers. The dirt road comes out at  a "major"   road (near some sort of electrical plant?) Turn left onto road to reach a layby. At the layby, follow the sign left and down. Keep to the left of the valley, going past old farms. Go around the corner to the left and pass the Shinto shrine. Yakushi Do (Temple 28) is in a smart new "garden shed" type building facing the sea. There is an old picnic shelter with benches and a roof, also a toilet.
 

There are two ways to go on to #29. (I did both!)
The sea route: Go to the end of the street (sea) and Turn right, go to the post office and turn left. Walk along this main road by the sea - fantastic views,. Follow the road around, up and over the top of the hill, down the other side to the sea. Turn right at the sea. Stay on the main road (now the sea is on your left,) throughthe little village,  up the hill till you see a sign on the right, go up the driveway............to Kazeana An (Temple 29)... This takes quite a long  time. 

By the path: Go back up to the lay by, look to the left, you will see a path on the other side of the road (before the road descends) with red + white Micho signs. Follow this narrow path UP thro' the woods,  then downand  come out at the back of Kazeana An.  Much faster!

However, you get here, you can spend a long time enjoying the view.  Inside there are benches behind a sliding door. Shh! Jizo is asleep in his little palace!  There is an old house and a water tap, but not much else. 

To go onto to #30 + 31, go down the driveway, turn right and walk along by the sea. Shoho Ji (Temple 30) is on the right in a little village, (drinks machines)

Then back to the main road and on to Seigan Ji (Temple 31)  Its tucked down a side road, to the right  in the next village, there are two stores - on eby the temple , another a bit further on  along the coast road. 

'There 's  an extra temple on the way, a tiny minature toy shrine on a little hill. 




Coming down from the hill to the village of Muroo you reach Hojuji An (Temple 34) on the right side of the main street, up steps.  Its an active neighborhood temple where I met ladies doing some kind of work day who gave me snacks.

The  next temple AisenJi (temple 32) is on the right of the road, opposite the road service area. Its pretty with ornate roofs and carvings.

More chances to get lost on this section, winding up the hill through the houses and fields to reach the Palace of the Fudo Myo, into a cool and friendly cave shrine and then back down to sea level. I f you keep moving, all this awe and wonder can fit into the morning. There's a convenience store at the end and a bus stop!

From the Road Service Area continue up the hill and over the other side, past the driveway of the Shodoshima Hotel. (There's a nice covered bus stop here, with cushions).  The first temple Choso Ji (Temple 33) is just down the road, on the right. It has a big shop which sells hair. I don't know  why....

Now jump forward to #36 + 37.  Turn right on to main road. Take the first right (store) and go down a long road past greenhouses. The road curves left by a factory, come out onto the 436, opposite Eneos gas station. Turn right and then take a left turn at Rumi's Hair Salon. Shaka Do (Temple 36) and Myoo Ji (Temple 37) are together on the same compound.  Shaka Do has a souvenir stand inside as well as benches for a rest.

Go back to the 436, and go to Eneos, Turn right and go straight at the next junction, cross the bridge and follow the road round to the left .  Komyo Ji (Temple 38) is a temple made of golden wood with contrasting white paint, on the right , opposite the barber shop. 

As you look at the temple, there's an alley way on the right. Go up it, turn left, then right next to the store. Stay on the footpath to the left of the water, and walk up through the cemetery to Matsukaze- An (Temple 39) Jizo, guardian of travellers is here at the cemetery. It's cool and dark, almost a cave, with wide ebnches inside and out. 

From here go to the road and follow it to the left to go to Hayashi An (temple 35)  I did get lost in this little maze of fields and houses and had to rescued by rubbish collector who walked me to this tiny garden shed style temple with its bizarre..... well... you will see. People come here to pray for pregnancy according to my guide.

On the road, go up the hill and then curve around to the right. There's a steep bank to the left, covered in orchard  terraces, looking out over the valley to the right. There;'s a little picnic shelter along here.  Then there's a left turn up the hill. Keep going up, up , up.....  I guess there is a small michi on the left but I missed it and walked on the road  (curves around a bit) until a right turn up a minor road to get to  Nishino Taki (temple 42). 

It's a wonderful place with commanding views.It's also a bit of a maze with quite few different shrines, a scary tunnel in the rocks, a gold FudoMyo shrine blackened with goma smoke,  a small guest house (?),  so spend some time, explore and enjoy....... It would be a great place to be in the fog. The day I was there a peacock was strutting around, very pleased to have escaped from captivity down in the valley.

Go out of the back of Nishino Taki, past the toilets and follow a narrow and rocky path to Bukkoku Zan (Temple 41) 
This is another treat. A cave shrine where you can get right up close to the shrine. A nice lady is in charge here - sh ehas two sons (one of whom is the priest at #2). She speaks English a little and asked me lots of questions. She also called the lady at  #40 to say I was on my way.  There's a picnic shelter and seats.

From here go down the driveway to the road and begin to descend. On the left you will see a small jizo. Turn left here down a steep and rocky path, loose stones. (in bad weather it might be an idea to stick to the road). At the pylon keep straight on. At the memorial stones keep right to out behind Hoan Ji (temple 40) . It has a big tree.

Go to the road and turn right to get to a bus stop opposite a convenience store. You can get to Tonosho on the bus from here.

This day starts with a little loop around the Kashima area to the South of Tonosho Port, and then leaves Tonosho and heads up to the less populated Northern Coast. There are some amazing temples on this stretch, but I  did get lost and couldn't find accommodation. I ended up getting the bus back to Tonosho and staying there. In retrospect I would have done it differently and stayed in Tonosho, visiting local temples in the city. Then maybe stayed out at Green Hotel  to get ahead start on the next day........

I started from Tonosho Port and visited Temples 62 + 63 first. From the port follow the road sign to Kashima (at the side of the gas station). At the crossroads go straight (towards KAshima) There is a michi sign on the lampost). AT the large Shinto sign and torii, turn left at the sign, then left up the steps.  (About 5 or 10 minutes from the Port) There are a series of new shrines with sliding doors and benches inside. (new bathroom).  The signed route to the left has been cut by new houses, so return to main road. Follow in the Kashima direction over the top of the hill (past some cafes, souvenir stores), and also past the Kaisanso Hotel (coffee shop next door - open 8am - 8pm). Just before the sea, turn right and follow signs up the hill to Temple 59 . Very pretty with benches under a vine.  

#59 to  #60 = 30 minutes
At the bottom of the steps turn right.  This goes down to the main road; turn right. After the tunnel there os a liquor store on the left with a peace pillar, take this small road and go down thro' the village (there's a tiny store). Fork left to go around the the harbor. Find Temple 60 in the corner of the cliff next to a Kobo Daishi statue. Go into the cave shrine and   the little one up the steps. 

#60 to #61 = 40 minutes
From #60  go back to the village and turn left to to go back to the main road. Go thro' another tunnel. Temple 61 
is in the second villlage after the tunnel, around the headland. Look for the sign to the right of the fork. Its 40 minutes along the main road to Tonosho. 


Go to Temple 57 (Jogen Bo) next.

 From Tonosho Port, (High Speed Terminal)  go straight up the road past San Ban Kan, towards the SHodoshima Assoication HQ. At the HQ building turn left up a back street. this takes you thro' the soft drink and beer bottling district. Go across the bridge and turn left (Olive Town is in front of you). At the main road, cross the road and turn left.   Opposite a store, turn right for Jogen Bo.  Its a shabby place, under an electircity pylon (?) It needs some love.

Go back to the main road and turn right for  Temples 53 (Honkaku Ji) and 65 (Komyo An) 

A little further on, the two temples can be reached from the main road, but there were road works when I was there and so turned right and follwed the road up the hill and around to the left. As the houses end Hon Kaku JI is on the left. I think this is a great route to follow here as the entrance to this temple is beautiful and spectacular. Indian monks run this temple,; the huge pillar can be seen from the port.  Temple 65 is down the hill; much more traditional but still beautiful. If the monks see you they will show you the shrine commemorating the relationship  between India and Japan.

This day started for me at Temple 70 (choso Jo). (On a bus route out of Tonosho).  As a section it involves some longer hikes between temples and one section which is rocky and inhospitable - it would be slippery in wet weather.
Arrange your accommodation for tonight before leaving... as there  is not much up there.

From Choso Jo its a one hour hike to Temple 71 (Takonamiya Do) There is a sign from #71 along the vilaage street but no further clue! I found a path rising steeply thro' fields to a country road. Come out on the road close to a bend and with an abandoned shrine almost opposite. Turn right on this road. Continue at cross roads to a T Junction with a marker. Turn left, enter the village and turn right opposite the Shinto shrine (drinks machine). #71 is on the right on a small road. There is a bench under a roof and a basic toilet but no water - the tap is dry..

Another hour over the mountain to the first part of Temple 72 (Ryuku Ji).  Turn right out of ~71. Turn right at the marker. Follow this path up thro the bamboos then into the woods. There are good markers in this section. Ther es a walk thro the woods lined with buddhas. The trail forks at the Fudo Myo statue. The left trail goes up and over - I followed it as far as the roof of a monument (???) before returning to the Fudo Myo and takingthe right fork. This is a very steep and eroded path, which leads down to the back entrance of the mountain top Temple. This temple has a shelter and tables. Also lots of tourists.